Triax output (SCART) and HDMI

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Triax output (SCART) and HDMI

(23 posts)

grahamlthompson

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Grime - 26 minutes ago »
yep quite right it is the triax box which generates the 9v output. My mistake there
I suggested getting the adapters as it is simple matter to fit them (2 seconds) and the cost is so slight compared to half an hour's work fitting f-type connectors (which you will have to buy anyway :P) But the principle of reducing your number of connection points is still a good one and maybe over-archs my own suggestion.

Takes about a minute to fit a f connector and it's a better match to the 75ohm coax cable. Belling Lee connectors were originally designed for radio (1922) where the frequencies used are much lower so the impedance mismatch is less of an issue.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TV_aerial_plug

| Sun 1 Jun 2014 12:44:59 #11 |
Hoops

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Thanks both for your posts, but I'm now a bit confused (yes I know, like I wasn't before lol). So what is it exactly I need? Essentially I 'll have a piece of coax that I need to plug in somewhere (currently in the back of the Sky+ box - RF out) so all I'm interested in really is being able to plug it in somewhere so it can distribute the FTA channels via the loft box so they can be picked up by any other connected TVs. I think that makes sense....!

Thanks again

| Fri 6 Jun 2014 19:38:32 #12 |
grahamlthompson

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If you buy the triax tr-link unit, it has the same coax sockets as your Sky box. You take the aerial in cable from the Sky box aerial in (RF In) and connect it to the the TRiax-Tri Link aerial in. You disconnect the coax connected to the Sky box rf1 out (connects to local TV) and connect it to the tribox rf1 out socket. You disconnect the cable connected to the Skybox rf2 out (the feed to the loft amplifier) and connect it to the Tri-linkrf2 out.

You connect the tri-link scart socket to the Humax scart socket (alternatively use a scart to phono adaptor on the tri-link set to input, and connect using three phono cables to the output sockets on the Humax). Connect an Infra red repeater to the Tri-link and place the other end near the Humax ir window. Set the tri-link to output on the same uhf channel as your Sky-Link uses (Normal default is UHF 68 I believe).

That's it everthing should now work as it did before. Any magic eyes you have should control the Humax using a Humax remote control.

| Sat 7 Jun 2014 11:35:08 #13 |
Hoops

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Awesome, thanks for that, and making it easy to follow I don't need to do this yet as I have a BT Sport sub via the Sky+ box, once that's finished the swap will be complete!

Many thanks.

| Sun 8 Jun 2014 10:15:05 #14 |
Hoops

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After doing some more reading, just a thought - as I'm not interested in viewing what's currently on the 1010s, only allowing the other TVs to tune to a Freeview signal, do I actually need to connect the scart connections on a Tri-Link box? Can I just connect the aerial cables (coax) and power it up, allowing the TVs in other rooms to receive a signal? Sorry for all the questions, but as you've probably released this isn't an area that makes a lot of sense to me!

| Sun 8 Jun 2014 11:04:37 #15 |
grahamlthompson

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Hoops - 30 minutes ago »
After doing some more reading, just a thought - as I'm not interested in viewing what's currently on the 1010s, only allowing the other TVs to tune to a Freeview signal, do I actually need to connect the scart connections on a Tri-Link box? Can I just connect the aerial cables (coax) and power it up, allowing the TVs in other rooms to receive a signal? Sorry for all the questions, but as you've probably released this isn't an area that makes a lot of sense to me!

You only need to connect the scart to view the 1010s remotely. It's a very expensive way to simply pass on the signals. Probably cheaper to replace the amplifier in the loft with a remotely powered one.

eg

http://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-ca121-s-compact-aerial-amplifier-single-input-2-outputs/30862?kpid=30862&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CjkKEQjwk9CcBRDEopHmnZa5td8BEiQAr2BckHXCQCSHhNXpDXF-_pg3SGwgzlMYk7k1aQ9Zw7FV7gjw_wcB

I would be inclined to try using a standard 12V masthead amplifier power unit to power the loft box.

The above amplifier will work with a 12V power supply.

| Sun 8 Jun 2014 11:40:17 #16 |
Hoops

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Brilliant, looks a good bit of kit, thanks for that (again!).

| Sun 8 Jun 2014 16:22:33 #17 |
Grime

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Hi Graham does that splitter provide 'power pass' such that it could be used to relay ir signals sent to a magic eye back through it to the triax box

Other readers of my comments above should be advised that the triax splitter that I mentioned does not allow this !!!!

| Thu 12 Jun 2014 12:03:12 #18 |
grahamlthompson

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Grime - 1 hour ago »
Hi Graham does that splitter provide 'power pass' such that it could be used to relay ir signals sent to a magic eye back through it to the triax box
Other readers of my comments above should be advised that the triax splitter that I mentioned does not allow this !!!!

If you already have a skylink compatible amp in the loft, you only need the triax tri-link unit (it's a straight replacement for a sky box).

| Thu 12 Jun 2014 13:31:51 #19 |
Hoops

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Hi All,

Well, my BT Sport subscription has now expired - about a year after my first post in this thread - and I'm ready to ditch my Sky+ box. Summarising my first post of wanting to pipe the terrestrial Freeview channels around my house via coax and the unpowered splitter box in my loft, should I still be looking at using the Triax unit?

Many thanks.

| Sun 31 May 2015 8:56:04 #20 |