You can't get much better than the FR range.
As you can see above, I used Rubycon YXF capacitors which I happened to have in stock. I suspect that these are not quite as low ESR as the FR range, so I'm wondering if the total inrush current is too much for the TPS65251 power controller on the mainboard (as it was when I tried using 330uF FRs initially).
I don't regret switching out those 10 capacitors, when it did turn on that one time the machine seemed a lot more responsive, it had been getting annoyingly laggy prior to failure. I've ordered myself an ESR meter now so I'll have a poke around with that and see what I find.
Thanks Andy,
I just revived my ex-trial box (replaced once under warranty in 2013).
With help from an old solderer with professional tools and skill to remove old caps, box now revived. I used Rubycon 16YXF220MY0811 cpc order code CA00167.
I used a microscope to check when solder new, I only soldered from bottom, not sure if supposed to solder from top as well, not all holes fully soldered. NB not all caps have polarity marked on board - take photos before to refer to.
I'm not sure domestic tools would be good enough to remove old caps - but if you try there is the optional destructive technique pliers/mole grips to crush cans and then solder to old legs!
The old caps were all +10% on capacitance 240-250uF, new ones all -5% 210-215uF. They are supposed to be +/- 20% spec. I didn't manage to locate a good ESR meter, but on one bridge old caps all 2-4 times (0.8-1.6 ohms) more than new (0.4 ohms). Most telling probably was that a component tester initially recognized one of the caps as a resistor not a capacitor.
Box still needed a visit to maintenance mode to reset firmware but no recordings lost. http://videos.youview.com/support/maintenance_mode.pdf Before cap change usually couldn't get anything on screen, occasionally first boot screen but I'm sure no buttons ever worked....
You can tell the polarity from the board even if there is no '+' marked by one of the holes. The footprint of capacitor is enclosed in a white circle with a bump protruding around one of the holes. The hole inside the extra bump is for the negative leg of the capacitor (see photo).
I found an easy way to desolder and remove the old capacitors using a plastic cable tie. If you loop the tie around one of the legs on the top of the board (no need to actually fasten the tie) and pull it taut holding both ends, and then heat the solder with a iron from the underside. When the solder melts, pull on the tie and the leg will come free of the board from the top. If you then heat the solder fixing the other leg to the board, when it melts you can remove the capacitor by pulling on the body of the capacitor.
Cap%20polarity.jpg (25.3 KB, 95 downloads) 8 years old I put plenty of fresh solder on each joint, then use a penknife to straighten the leads while melting the solder. While touching the tip of the iron across both legs, pull out the capacitor. Then use a desolder tool or braid to clear the holes.
I've just repaired another DTR-T1000 today. 8 out of the 10 Sam Young capacitors were about 4x the specified ESR. I used the Panasonic FR range capacitors. I found that the capacitors needed to be removed for an accurate ESR reading, as several capacitors have others in parallel when measuring in-circuit.
MontysEvilTwin - 1 day ago »
You can tell the polarity from the board even if there is no '+' marked by one of the holes. The footprint of capacitor is enclosed in a white circle with a bump protruding around one of the holes. The hole inside the extra bump is for the negative leg of the capacitor (see photo).
Thanks I can even see that on my photos! Great that we are saving these boxes from landfill! I've ordered a cheap ESR meter from fleabay - not too surprised they do not work with caps in circuit, elsewhere I have seen references to 'lifting a leg', but if you get that far really no excuse not to replace a 20 pence capacitor with reputable new - but it is good to have confirmation old caps not good!
Many thanks andyfras. I have successfully repaired my box using Panasonic capacitors as recommended. I just cut off the old capacitors near the body which left short leads which were easily removed with my Weller soldering iron, after using a solder sucker to remove the solder from the holes the new capacitors were easily fitted. I can now watch my recordings.
Hi
I have just joined as my DTR-T1010 box sticks on "Nearly Ready", not responsive to any buttons, would replacing the capacitors solve this?
If so are these correct?
You'll need 2 packs of 220uF @ 16V.
There's no guarantee that replacing the capacitors will fix it. I've had some successes and some failures. The failures were due to corrupted firmware.
On all of the ones I've repaired, I've also found that 2 x 10uF @ 50V surface-mount capacitors were out of specification. Bottom left hand corner of the picture here:
https://myhumax.org/forum/topic/dtr-t10x0-successful-repair?replies=19#post-46506
Never easy is it!!!!!!!
You must log in to post.
